For a small village, San Pancho has an astonishing number of excellent places to eat, with dozens of restaurants offering delicious food, ranging from high cuisine to corner bistros and taco stands. You can choose from fish tacos, fresh-baked pizza, hamburgers, steak, fresh-squeezed juices, great salads, and traditional fish and shrimp dinners, to mention only a few.

Most of San Pancho's restaurants and bistros are located either on the main street, Avenida del Tercer Mundo (Avenue of the Third World), or Africa.   Africa has a number of restaurants between Tercer Mundo and the hospital that cater primarily to local Mexicans.

When buying from a street vendor in any country, it is a good idea to look for reasonable cleanliness standards. You will find that eating establishments in San Pancho are rigorous about sanitation and disinfecting fresh produce. Ice is produced from bottled water.

Most of the nicer restaurants feature a wide variety of great live music, especially in the winter (high season). It is best to check ahead to verify that an establishment features live music on a particular night.

Your choices basically fall into three categories, 1) elegant dining establishments and more casual places that cater to gringos (they speak English), 2) traditional street-side bistros and vendors, and 3) authentic Mexican restaurants. Prices are listed in pesos.

On The Beach

If you prefer dining on the beach (la Playa), there are two fine restaurants at the west end of Tercer Mundo. Pull up a chair, nestle your bare feet in the sand, and catch the sunset over fish tacos and a Pacifico. Both restaurants close around 8:00 PM, so go elsewhere to eat late. Watching the sun gently slide into the ocean is an essential part of eating dinner at these ocean-side oases.

Las Palmas (The Palms)

On the right (north) at the west end of Tercer Mundo
(311) 258-4035

This restaurant features great fish and other meats served in a number of traditional ways, and a nice selection of imbibeables. This is a long time favorite spot for the local gringos to gather and assess the relative merits of each evening's sunset.

La Perla del Mar (The Pearl of the Sea)

On the left (south) at the west end of Tercer Mundo
(311) 258-4334

Amandine, who owns and operates two other excellent San Pancho restaurants, has recently renovated and reopened this restaurant featuring Mexican beach-style seafood cuisine. You can get breakfast, lunch, early dinner, and snacks. Beverages are available until midnight. Enjoy cumbia, salsa, reggae, and bossa nova music with your seafood burger, aguachiles, ceviches, nachos. There is also a kids menu.

Pizza Delivery

Toogino's Pizza

On the north side of Tercer Mundo, just west of Africa
(311) 258-4461

Tasty pizza, fresh out of the oven, walk-up or delivery.

Bakeries

La Bottega dei Sapori

On the west side of America Latina, just north of Tercer Mundo
(311) 258-4392

This is an Italian bakery (yum) and restaurant.

Tortilleria San Francisco

On the west side of America Latina, just north of Tercer Mundo

Right next door to the bakery is the tortilla factory, where you can get freshly baked taco shells and entertain your children watching the production line. The sign on the building states "Here we sell the freshest and most nutritious tortillas made."

Dining for Gringos

Elegant Cuisine And Service

There are several higher-end restaurants where English is spoken, with a wide variety of innovative, amazingly good dishes and beverages, great service, and elegant surroundings. Expect to pay MXP $100-250 for dinner entrees (USD $9-23). There are also breakfast and lunch establishments that cater to gringos.

Live music performances are common, especially during the winter high season. Most dining is open air. Expect good value by US standards--a wonderful evening will cost roughly what you would pay at home in a typical family restaurant. Here are a few examples (not a comprehensive list):

La Ola Rica (Wave of Abundance)

On the south side of Tercer Mundo, west of México
(311) 258-4123

Proprietors Gloria and Triny have established one of San Pancho's finest restaurants with great shrimp dishes, carne asada (the State of Nayarit is famous for its steak), lime chicken, salads, and excellent cocktails. Live music abounds.

Café Del Mar (Café of the Sea)

On China at the top of the big hill on the north end of Asia (turn right)
(311) 258-4251

The founder, Amandine, is French Belgian and it shows in the deliciously creative cuisine. Start with fresh-squeezed juices (the ginger, pineapple, and mint beverage is outstanding), then try the great Greek salad, pasta with Asian herbs, or grilled tuna. They also have a nice selection of tequilas and mezcals. Music can include contemporary and flamenco dance, reggae and jazz. There are also rotating art shows featuring local artists.

MarPlata

At the north end of Los Palmas, on the east side, in Costa Azul
(311) 258-4424

Also founded by Amandine, this is the fanciest restaurant in town and features a large rooftop dining area. MarPlata features renowned Argentinean meat dishes, or try fresh fillet of mahi-mahi cooked with white wine and estragon, tuna seared in olive oil, or Horneado Camembert with honey and mustard. A full bar is complemented by Spanish, French, Argentinean, Italian, and Mexican wines. Delectable desserts include Belgian chocolate fondue with fruits of the day and a wide selection of coffees.

San Pancho Café (aka Casa de Chile Relleno)

On the north side of Tercer Mundo, west of América Latina

This restaurant has just opened in San Pancho. The signature chile rellenos are just the beginning of the culinary masterpieces available in this beautiful rooftop palapa. The taco soup, guacamole with pomegranate, outstanding fish dishes and much more are served with flair and outstanding presentation. Traditional cuisine taken up a notch by a master chef. Excellent desserts and drink menu. Fabulous dining in a fun setting at reasonable prices. Hard to beat.

Don Pedro's

In Sayulita on Marlin, at the beach

Sayulita also has a great selection of fine places to eat. At the more expensive end, but well worth it, is this restaurant on the beach. The scenery is wonderful and the outstanding menu includes moussaka, artichoke heart ravioli, steamed Mussels a la Provencale, puttanesca, seafood bouillabaisse, Mouscovy duck breast, and chocolate mousse crepes. Great service and music.

Great Restaurants

La Casa del Gallo (The Home of the Rooster) aka Galloly Pizzeria

On the south side of Tercer Mundo, across from the soccer field
(311) 258-4135

Manuel Landa (better known as Gallo) regards this restaurant as an extension of his living room. It feels like that, too: cozy, warm and beautiful. Enjoy great crispy pizzas, salads, steak wrapped in bacon, shrimp, and chicken dishes under palm trees in the beautiful dining room beneath the stars. Dessert is also great. Excellent live music often includes Manuel on guitar and flute. On Thursdays, Frank does a presentation on the sea turtle preservation project.

La Taza de Café (The Cup of Coffee)

On the south side of Tercer Mundo, west of México, next to La Ola Rica
(311) 258-4162

This is a great breakfast place, with a lovely open and bright decor. They have an espresso machine for your favorite morning eye-opener, or you can order a wide selection of fruit and vegetable juices, fresh-squeezed to order. They also make great omelets--you can select from veggies, sausage, ham, and goat cheese.

María Deli-Café

On the south side of Tercer Mundo, near the beach
(311) 258-4439 or (322) 140-8088

Ines offers tasty breakfasts and lunches at the café, featuring eggs, pastas, salads, sandwiches, coffees, and desserts.

Bistros

El Jardin de Pancha (The Garden of Pancha)

On the north side of Tercer Mundo, towards the highway, east of Saigon

This is a popular breakfast and lunch place with a variety of omelets, milkshakes, smoothies, salads, baguette sandwiches, and desserts. Adjacent to a gift shop.

Eat hearty with the locals for great value

At the other end of the spectrum are the corner bistros where many Mexicans eat. With plastic garden chairs and low-frills service, often with a variety of self-serve condiments and side dishes, these eateries make up in charm for what they lack in elegance. At the smaller ones, it is a lot like being invited to dinner with the local families. Children and old people are often abundant.

Fresh-squeezed juices and tasty beverages made from grain (besides beer) are common. The selection tends to be limited, but consists of good, fresh food including eggs and beans for breakfast, meat and fish for lunch and dinner, and a variety of fresh sauces and veggie condiments. The locals are diligent about disinfecting produce, so you can safely eat at these places.

Many of these establishments tend to specialize in serving either during the early part of the day or in the evening. English is spoken only occasionally, so take a Spanish-English guide book and have fun. You can have excellent steak or fish, vegetables, and sauces with tortillas, for example, for about MXP $40-60. This is a phenomenal deal and a great time.

Los Delfines (The Dolphins)

On the north side of Tercer Mundo, east of México
(311) 258-4238

This is a popular spot in this category. Very friendly people serve a variety of mini tacos with meat, fish, cheese, or veggies. During the winter (high) season, they often have great flan. Also check out:

• Los Tacos de Eva, the fresh fish taco eatery at the corner of Asia and Egipto is a local favorite
• Try breakfast and fresh juices on the north side of Tercer Mundo, east of Asia
• For dinner, another great place is on the north side of Tercer Mundo, west of Asia
• Pollo Rostizado, at the corner of América Latina and Egipto, specializes in roasted chicken

Street vendors can also be a great source of good, inexpensive food. Taco stands can amaze you with great flavor and a hearty meal for less than MXN $30 (USD $3)--with beverage. You can also buy roasted corn right out of wheeled ovens with wood stoves.

Traditional Mexican Restaurants

There are a number of restaurants that cater primarily to local Mexicans. Prices are only modestly higher than the corner bistros. These places are fun to explore, as each has its own unique character and culinary specialties. Local people tend to let their hair down (so to speak) more in these establishments, so be prepared for real cultural experiences like cranked-up salsa music, soccer on TV, and animated conversations.

English is generally not spoken. However, people are friendly and accommodating to sign language and other rudimentary attempts at communication. These are the places to go to get a taste of real life among native San Panchans.

Restaurant la Avenida (the sign above says "Marcos")

On the north side of Tercer Mundo, toward the highway, west of Saigon
(322) 111-4716 Rigoberto or (322) 142-1221 Adriana

Adriana and Rigoberto have created a great restaurant on the east side of Tercer Mundo. It tends to be quieter, with more gringo-familiar dishes. Try pancakes with fruit, French toast (MXN $25), a hearty omelet, or tortillas with eggs or chicken for breakfast. The lunch menu includes red snapper, ceviche, and quesadillas. Among the dinner offerings are chile rellenos, chicken mole (MXN $60), steak (MXN $100), lobster (MXN $200) and fish enchiladas (MXN $50). Yummy food at affordable prices.

La Chalupa (The Little Canoe)

On the east side of México, just south of Tercer Mundo
(311) 258-4150

The family that owns this large Mexican family-style restaurant also owns the local fishing fleet. If you wish, around noon each day, you can purchase freshly-caught seafood here. Mahi mahi and shrimp are typically part of the catch.

So many great restaurants,
so little time

You will have to come and stay for a while to sample all the scrumptious yumminess, the hugely diverse and delectable dining options that San Pancho has to offer.

Recreation

The Nayarit Riviera is home to the Huichol (Native American) handcrafts and cultural center, the Alta Vista archeological site (still in use for sacred rituals), the unique island town of Mexcaltitán (accessible only by boat and believed to be the fabled Aztlán homeland of the Aztec people), river trips through mangrove forests, beautiful volcanic crater lakes, great beaches, and our village of San Pancho.

If you enjoy outstanding nature photography, be sure and check out both links under Birding and Nature Tours.

Note that all phone numbers listed in this guide are Mexican, unless noted otherwise. To reach Mexican phones from the US and Canada, dial 011-52 and then the number. You must dial "1" before the area code to reach Mexican cell phones, which have the (322) area code.

SAN PANCHO RECREATION

San Pancho is an excellent place to relax and enjoy quiet days. There are also a lot of great choices if your idea of a good time involves getting out and actively seeking adventure. If your idea of a fine day is an exquisite massage, followed by yoga and a spa treatment, you too have come to the right place.

Adventure Guides

Tailwind Outdoor Company

Tailwind is located at Selva Del Tigre, five magical acres of dense coastal jungle adjacent to San Pancho. This area is known for its natural beauty?white sand beaches and some of the last remaining wild jungle on this coastline. Tailwind is family-owned and operated by some of the most knowledgeable and all-around FUN people you will meet, including father-daughter guide team Tiger and Tamara. They offer ecologically-friendly lodging in tent platforms, kayaking tours, jungle adventures, and recreational packages. Join them for an invaluable vacation experience while connecting to the natural world and local peoples of San Pancho.

Tailwind Outdoor Company seeks to demonstrate the comfort and joy of a low impact lifestyle. They are committed to sustainable tourism and take great care to ensure that all activities respect the integrity of the natural environment and our local community. Tailwind donates 1% of its profits to the EntreAmigos community center and local conservation programs. They also run educational programs to teach local children about the rich biodiversity of the jungle.

Go 2 Guy Tours
(360) 472-1460 (US)
(322) 149-8899

Sean Ochoa is a world-traveler, sportsman, surfer, and an excellent guide and host who helped write up the following local recreational opportunities. He is also available for guided tours of Puerto Vallarta nightlife and is a great resource for any questions you may have about local activities.

Here are two other good local adventure guides:

Pedro at Diva Tours
(311) 258-4017

Monico is a certified tour guide who worked at Costa Azul Adventure Resorts for many years.
(311) 258-4497

Costa Azul Adventure Resorts
(800) 365-7613 (US toll free)
(311) 258-4120

You can join a Costa Azul Adventure Resorts group expedition on a space -available basis.

Coastal Fishing and Deep Sea Fishing

Fishing success is all but guaranteed. Choose between a standard canopy-covered ponga (a small open-bow boat) with an outboard motor and bench seats or a super ponga with dual hydraulic props, steering console, outriggers and baño (for true anglers). Half days (4 hrs) or full days (8 hrs) include captain, gas, bait, gear , and tackle (you are welcome to bring your own gear). Four persons maximum. Fish for dorado (mahi-mahi), tuna, sailfish, sierra, red snapper, marlin, rooster fish, bonita, and more. Crews will clean and fillet your catch. Ask about heading out to the corvatena (a reef teeming with sea life), which is available only on full-day trips.

Pando is a local commercial fisherman who will take you on a fishing trip, adventuring up the coast, or over to the Marietas Islands National Marine Sanctuary for snorkeling.
(311) 258-4076

Fishing with Carolina
(322) 224-7250
Hardcore anglers in search of big game will definitely enjoy a day on Candace "Carolina" Shaw's namesake boat out of Puerto Vallarta. Check out her website for details and a local fishing photo album.

Numerous fishing charters also operate out of Bucerías, 23 km (14 mi) south of San Pancho, on the way to Puerto Vallarta.

Click here for information and pictures from the annual "Hook the Cure" charity fishing and golf tournament .

Snorkeling

Early mornings are the best time to leave. Gear and guide are provided and the trips usually last four hours. Enjoy a quick and easy boat ride up the coast to the Marieta Islands National Marine Sanctuary, where you can snorkel through a big cave that leads to the small sandy "beach of love." This bird and marine sanctuary is home to a spectacular array of tropical fish, marine life, and the famous blue-footed boobies. The captain will drop you off (with your gear and coolers) on a white beach with private coves where you can spend the rest of the trip relaxing, eating, or enjoying more snorkeling. Memorable coastal views of the jungle meeting the sea are an added bonus, as well as the chance to see whales, turtles, and dolphins on the way to the islands! Half -day ponga trips for up to six are under USD $200.

Surfing

San Pancho and neighboring areas are a surfer's dream. Grab a board and get some expert help on getting to the best spots based on your skill level and the day's swell, wind, and tides. Lefts, rights, and mellow long-boarding waves can all be found within a half-hour drive from San Pancho. You can travel by ponga to get to breaks that can't be accessed by land. This is a bit more expensive but allows you to surf more than one break a day. Private lessons and board rentals are available.

San Pancho Surf Shop
(311) 258-4312
The local surf shop is a great place to stop in for equipment rentals, lessons, trips, and fishing expeditions.

Scuba Diving

You can rent equipment, although most divers bring their own. Scuba trips are more affordable than elsewhere, averaging $75 for one-tank dives and $100 for two-tank dives.

Kayaking

Kayak adventures up or down the coast can provide a close look at a wide variety of birds, turtles, dolphins, and whales in season.

Hiking

If you are ready to get a good sweat going and see this area from a vantage point comparable to no other, this tour is for you. Hike up a rugged jungle path to the peak of Monkey Mountain! The trailhead is a 10-minute drive from San Pancho. Snacks, water, and trail-blazing machetes are included. It takes about 90 minutes to reach the breathtaking views at the peak. Stop for a picnic under "the tree" before heading back down. You can see many creatures, birds, and trees on this adventure.

Other popular hikes take you through parts of the jungle where giant parrots live. You end up on private beaches accessible only by foot.

Bicycling

Bicycling on your own or with a guide is a fun alternative to hiking. Ask one of the guides listed above about rentals.

Horseback Riding

A San Pancho vacation is not complete without a horseback ride down an empty beach as the sun sets and the waves wash ashore. A range of horseback tours is available, from beginning to advanced. Guided tours can take you to empty beaches and virgin jungle never found by the average tourist. A horseback tour allows you to experience the true beauty and life of the jungle. Horseback riding generally costs around USD $25/hour.

Polo and Soccer

San Pancho has a polo field and a soccer field off Tercer Mundo, on either side of Ceilan. For polo information, contact Ivan or Gabrielle Echeverria at (311) 258-4391. Click here for an article on polo in San Pancho . Soccer is played most weekends. These events are a great opportunity to take in a game and observe a big crowd of local families cheering on our boys. Expect joyous celebration late into the night when we win a big one.

Folk Ballet

Alberto Diaz Castillo, who studied at the Institute of the Beautiful Arts in Mexico City, founded the local Huitari (which means rain in Huichol) Ballet to promote the traditional classical dances of Mexico and offer dance education, especially to young people. The Huitari Ballet company performs at many local events. Contact Alberto at (311) 258-4262. Click here for an article on folk ballet in San Pancho .

Birding and Nature Tours

Frank McCann, renowned photographer and naturalist, has lovingly documented the natural wonders of Bahía de Banderas on the Pacific Coast of Mexico. We are grateful that he has allowed us to share a few pictures from his wonderfully evocative, extensive collection of wildlife and nature photographs. To purchase your own slide show of these and many other inspiring images, contact Frank .

Luis Morales
(322) 779-0517

Luis is a naturalist, an ecologist, and an expert on local flora and fauna, especially birds. Take a lovely walk with him through the jungle and gain wonderful insight into local habitat and creatures. You will be astonished by his ability to identify the scores of bird species you will see, in either English or Spanish! Luis will also entertain you with local history and culture anecdotes. Ask if you have any other questions about San Pancho, Mexican culture, politics, or current events. Luis is a great San Pancho ecology and social systems guide.

Turtle Watching

Grupo Ecológico de la Costa Verde
(311) 258-4100

San Pancho is home to a wonderful ecology group dedicated to preserving marine wildlife, especially turtles. In 1993, Grupo Ecológico was the first nonprofit environmental group in the State of Nayarit to be granted official recognition by SEMARNAT (the Federal Secretary of the Environment and Natural Resources). They also produce workshops and field campaigns for children, and sponsor community and wild-land preservation and clean-up campaigns.

During the summer and fall months, female turtles come ashore to dig holes in the beach with their flippers, where they lay their eggs. Volunteers traverse the beach on a dune buggy throughout the night and gather the warm eggs to protect them from human and animal predators. Director Frank Smith then stores the eggs under environmentally controlled conditions until they are ready to hatch. The hatchlings are then returned to the beach, where they waddle back to sea.

At one time, vast swaths of turtles climbed onto pristine beaches. These hordes dwindled to a fading remnant of 72 nesting females when Grupo Ecológico began its work. Thanks to their efforts, the population has increased to 661 nesting females.

On Thursdays at 7:00 PM, Grupo Ecológico offers a presentation and slide show, hosted by Gallo's Restaurant, across Tercer Mundo from the soccer field. Hatchlings, when available, are released on the beach after the presentation. Check out Grupo Ecológico's archived newsletters on their website for fun reading about turtle-saving adventures.

Rejuvenation and Healing

A variety of renewal therapies, from yoga and massage techniques to spa treatments, are available in San Pancho.

Massage by Certified Massage Therapist Judith Garcia
(311) 258-4113
(322) 146-2078 (mobile)

Massage, Manicure and Pedicure by Silvia Elena Arce G.
(311) 258-4241

Massage and Yoga by Physical Therapist and Ashtanga Yoga Teacher Silvana Marveggio
(322) 134-7912

Yoga and Body Work
El-Estar Yoga Center
(311) 258-4256

El-Estar offers yoga classes, private yoga lessons, and a wide variety of body work and therapies, as well as biodegradable and eco-friendly products. This is the purple place, located on the north side of Egipto, east of America Latina.

Yoga Retreat and Vegetarian Restaurant
Haramara Retreat Center
(888) 494-3688 (US toll free)
(329) 291-3558

The sanctuary of Haramara (Grandmother Sea in Huichol) offers Hatha and Ashtanga yoga, as well as Vipassana meditation in the Yoga Pavilion, which is located on top of a hill with 360° views. An ongoing program of massages, restorative treatments, and holistic therapies is offered, as well as a variety of yoga and meditation workshops with word-class teachers.

Haramara also has a delicious vegetarian and seafood restaurant that blends macrobiotics with Asian, Mediterranean, and Mexican traditions. Call for reservations 24 hours in advance. Located just west of Sayulita on the road to Punta Mita.

SAYULITA

Sports and Nightlife

San Pancho's neighbor, Sayulita, is located 5 km (3 mi) to the south and has an active surf scene, many great restaurants (check out Don Pedro's on the beach), lively nightlife, and a similar variety of recreational activities. If it is after 10:00 PM and you are still looking for adventure, Sayulita is your nearest party town. In addition to being a haven for surfers, Sayulita also sports baseball, softball, and soccer games, and a mountain biking team.

Canopy Tour and Horseback Riding

If the thought of screaming through the jungle on a zip line fills your heart with glee, then fasten your seatbelt, because there are several choices. The nearest option is in Sayulita.

Rancho mi Chaparrita
(329) 291-3112

Luis Verdin has set up a zip-line canopy tour for aerial gliding fans. Experienced guides from Rancho mi Chaparrita also offer great horseback tours, ranging from serious adventures to milder rides that you can combine with the canopy tour. The office is located in Sayulita, across from the baseball field.

Where to Stay

Roberto's Bungalows are located in the heart of San Pancho, 2½ blocks from the beach. Five bungalows with separate air-conditioned bedrooms and open-air kitchens and living rooms open onto a gorgeous courtyard and pool reminiscent of a classic hacienda.

The grounds are private with keyed entry and are great for private parties and small weddings. The hosts, Diana and Steve, are a big part of what makes this place special.

Costa Azul Adventure Resort

US: (800) 365-7613
MX: (311) 258-4120

Costa Azul Adventure Resort is located just outside San Pancho and is its only all-inclusive beachside resort. Reasonably priced packages include ocean view accommodations; beach club membership; meals, unlimited a la carte dining, beer, house wine and soft drinks; recreational equipment and a rotating selection of multiple daily adventures, including surfing, horse-back riding, river-boat tours, whale-watching, snorkeling and kayaking, hikes, boating, spa treatments, and shopping expeditions.

This resort also offers excellent dining and fresh Mexican buffets, as well as salsa lessons, sports and jazz nights, a local mariachi band, folkloric ballet dancers, and the famous Noche Mexicana on Friday nights. For all the amenities, Costa Azul Adventure Resort does not have a big resort feel. Four separate and distinct lodging areas maintain a modest and friendly scale.

Transportation

There are direct flights from 30 US and Canadian cities to Puerto Vallarta. Air travel costs, flying coach, average between USD $300 and $400 for a round trip. Travel times average between 2½ hours and less than 5 hours. There are more flights in the winter and fares tend to go up then. Travel during the winter holidays often requires booking your flight several months in advance. Otherwise, seats are usually readily available.

Travel Documents

Passports

• Travel to Mexico requires a passport
• Children need their own passports
• Your passport expiration date must be six months later than your return date
• Place a paperclip on one of the pages of your passport to hold your Immigration Form stub and bring a pen (see below)

International Travel Precautions

Consider the following precautions whenever you travel overseas:

1. Make copies of your passport, travel, and other critical documents and store them separately from the originals. Alternately, scan your documents and e-mail them to yourself. US and Canadian toll-free (800) numbers do not work in Mexico, so also take regular toll numbers for your credit card companies.
2. Consider purchasing a money belt or pouch to wear under your clothes. This is particularly relevant if you are mingling in crowds.
3. Take a primary and a back-up credit card, as well as some emergency cash.
4. Leave your Mexican itinerary and contact information with someone back home.
5. Dental Floss (hard to find in Mexico)
6. Two-prong to three-prong electric plug adapters (many electrical outlets are two-prong, so bring an adapter if you have three-prong devices)

Travel Insurance

Here are links for purchasing travel protection insurance (including medical). You may also wish to check with your regular property and health insurance companies.

Travel Insurance Center

AIG Travel Guard

Arrival at the Airport

You will need to fill out simple immigration and custom forms before you arrive (airline personnel will provide these during your flight).

Here are some tips on filling out the forms:

Immigration Form

Download Example Immigration Form JPG

• Bring a pen with you on the flight (flight attendants do not usually supply them). You will need to fill out a separate Immigration Form for each person.
• Item 8: Simply entering the name of your place of lodging is fine, you do not need the address. Flight attendants usually assume you are staying in Puerto Vallarta and instruct you to fill out the state as "Jalisco." If you are staying in San Pancho, fill out the City name as "San Franci" (there are only ten spaces) and the State name as "Nayarit."
• Item 13: The flight attendants will provide you with your "airline and flight number."

Customs Form

Download Example Customs Form.pdf

• You only need to fill out one Customs Form per family.
• Item 5: Your "Transport Identification Number" is the same as Item 13 on the Immigration Form.
• Item 6: Be sure to take note of the import restrictions under this item and on the back of the Customs Form before you travel.

After debarking your plane, you will travel by bus to immigration. Passport and forms inspection usually goes quickly, except on peak travel days. The customs officer will return the bottom half of your Immigration Form. Put the stub in a safe place! Paper-clipping it inside your passport works well. You will need this form to check in at your airline when you depart. Replacing it will cost you USD $50 and some hassle.

After passing immigration, you will then collect your bags and proceed to customs inspection and approach a pedestrian traffic light. A friendly attendant will invite you to press a button, at which point the light will randomly flash red or green. If it flashes green you are done. ¡Bienvenidos a México!

If the light flashes red, you have won the luggage inspection prize. This usually goes quickly, unless there is something bogus in your bags. The penal system in Mexico is not a model of criminological enlightenment, so do not mess around with anything illegal.

From here you have one final hurdle. As you exit through a passageway into the main hall of the airport, you will be solicited by people offering you a free ride to your destination. Ignore them,unless you enjoy being hustled to buy time shares.

If you need pesos right away, there is an ATM in the airport that offers a fair exchange rate. Make a full turn to the right after you leave the customs inspection area and enter the main hall. Proceed down the corridor. The ATM is located on the south face of the airport building, just inside the doors that open onto the parking area.

Buy something at the airport so you have plenty of change. Small merchants are not always able to break large bills.

Return Flight From The Airport

If you are staying in San Pancho, note that the State of Nayarit is on Mountain Time, while the State of Jalisco and the Puerto Vallarta airport are on Central Time. Therefore, you will need to leave San Pancho an hour earlier to make your flight.

A couple of things can make this tricky. Cell phones in San Pancho often reset to Puerto Vallarta time after you turn them on. Also, so far Mexico has not followed the US in tweaking the dates for daylight savings time adjustments and still moves its clocks backwards and forwards on the traditional dates. This means that in the spring and fall the Mexican dates for "springing forward" or "falling back" may vary by a few days from those in the US. If you are traveling during these times, call your airline the day before you travel to verify that you have the correct temporal coordinates for your flight. You can also call the airport at (322) 221-1298.

Also, remember that Immigration Form stub (see above).

NOTE: Dial 011-52 first for phone access from Canada or the US to Mexico.

Ground Transportation

Buses

To ride the bus to San Pancho (San Francisco), take the local bus,or a taxi, 1 km north from the airport to Puerto Vallarta's main bus terminal (Central Camionero). You can reach the Central Camionero at (322) 290-1008. Fares on local buses are about MXN $4 (US 40¢). Most local buses run approximately from 6:00 AM to 11:00 PM.

On local buses, be prepared for musical performances, stand-up comedy, and shopping opportunities. Tip according to your level of amusement.

The regional buses are surprisingly nice and comfortable and the fares are modest. The bus to Tepic is the one that stops in San Pancho. They depart every 40 minutes starting very early until around 10:00 PM.

Taxis

Taxis in Puerto Vallarta generally operate on flat fees based on neighborhood zones. Find out the rate for your destination before you take the ride. Expect to pay between MXN $25 and $45 (USD $2-4) for most trips. Tipping taxi drivers is only done if you receive help with your luggage or other extra care.

Metered travel in the state of Jalisco has separate rates for day travel (6:00 AM to 10:00 PM), noted by a "1" on the left side of the meter, and night travel, which is noted by a "2". The official day rate is MXN $7.54 to start, MXN $4.24 per kilometer, and MXN $1.06/min for idling. At night (10:00 PM to 6:00 AM), rates are MXN $9.68 to start, MXN $5.29 per kilometer, and MXN $1.33/min for idling.

Expect a 50% premium, above the metered rate, for highway travel out of town.

Normal (yellow) taxis are not allowed to operate on airport property. The airport-authorized taxis are considerably more expensive as they are required to pay hefty airport-use fees.

Shuttle Services

A taxi or van to San Pancho runs about USD $60 each way. This is the same regardless of the number of passengers, so this can be a good option if you are traveling with a family or group. If you are planning on staying in San Pancho for your vacation, a car is not really necessary. It is less than a mile from one side of San Pancho to the other.

Your best bet for shuttle service is the following company based in Sayulita and San Pancho. Call or e-mail them a day in advance and they will meet your flight at the airport.

Diva Tours & Transportation
Pedro Díaz and Marcos Plazola
(311) 258-4017
01 (800) 639-0002 (Toll free in Mexico)

Rental Cars

We have tried most of the major car rental companies in Puerto Vallarta and have found them to be consistently abysmal, with high fees for crummy vehicles, shameless add-on costs, reluctance to honor online contracts, long waits, and lousy customer service.

Then we discovered Gecko Rent a Car. These courteous gentlemen will pick you up at the airport and promptly drive you north to their office in Bucerias (on the way to San Pancho) and a rendezvous with a nice automobile. If you are heading south, ask them about picking up your vehicle at the airport.

A comprehensive insurance package is included in the standard rental agreement. There are no hassles or big delays. They are happy to hangout and tell you about the best recreational activities in the area and answer any other questions you might have about visiting or living in Mexico, acting unofficially as great tour guides and local hosts. You will enjoy working with these friendly, honest, and conscientious business people.

Gecko Rent a Car
Adam, Denis and Kaisa
(329) 298-0339

Driving In Mexico

Safety

There are a wide variety of driving conditions in Mexico, from modern interstate highways (mostly toll roads--be sure to have plenty of pesos) to cobblestone lanes. In general, traffic engineering and road construction is not as refined for safety as in the US and Canada. For this reason there are some extra precautions that you should definitely take:

1. Inspect your vehicle for safety and maintenance issues and always wear your seat belts.
2. On narrow, winding roads you will sometimes find a combination of slow commercial vehicles and impatient drivers of private vehicles making speedway passing moves. Resist the temptation to join the race and simply relax at the pace that is available without making risky moves. If this is hopelessly slow, pull off and get a bite to eat or visit a roadside attraction. Leave yourself lots of extra time; do not put yourself in the position of needing to hurry.
3. Watch out for hazards, such as potholes, animals, and pedestrians in the road. There are typically speed bumps (topes) in urban areas or as you pass through small villages, even on the highways. These are not always well-marked and can generate damaging jolts if you do not dramatically reduce your speed. Note that Mexican drivers go drive very slowly when crossing the topes.
4. Do not drive at night. With the exception of the interstate highways, road markings are often sketchy, hazards are harder to see, and the site distances that you are used to in the US and Canada do not exist here. You can come around a curve or over a hill at moderate speed and still not have time to react to an unexpected hazard, especially at night.
5. Slow down or avoid driving in the rain, especially at the beginning of a rain storm. The road surface can be very slick until the rain has a chance to wash away the oil and debris that collects on the road surface. Cobblestones are also extremely slippery when wet.

Left Turns

Left turns on highways are accomplished differently than in the US and Canada. Highways typically have frontage roads. To turn left, exit right on to the frontage road at an exit opportunity (note that people traveling along the frontage road have the right-of-way) or at an intersection prior to the intersection at which you wish to turn left.

When the green left arrow illuminates for you, all traffic in the highway will be stopped for cars in the side roads to cross over. As you make your move, be aware of vehicles making the same maneuver as you, but in the opposite direction. The illustration shows the blue car taking appropriate actions on a left turn arrow. Do not follow the example of the red car.

Interstates and Green Angels

Almost 300 green pick-up trucks patrol the interstate highways, looking for breakdowns and offering roadside assistance. These Angeles Verdes (Green Angels) trucks are staffed by bilingual crews of experienced mechanics. You can reach them at (800) 903-9200. Tip them if they help you out.

Buying Gas

Filling stations are all under contract to the state-owned oil company, Pemex. There is no point in shopping prices, as they are all the same. Although some stations take credit cards, many do not. In a pinch, you can pay with US dollars.

All stations are full service. Do tip the service attendant if you accept additional services. This can range from MXN $2-5 for a kid who cleans your windshield, up to 5-10% of your gas bill for a full check of engine fluids and tire pressure.

The nearest filling station to San Pancho is in Lo de Marcos, 10 km (6 mi) to the north, or in Bucerías, 23 km (14 mi) to the south. There are a variety of auto service and repair shops in San Pancho.

On The Way To San Pancho

You will find it very helpful to print the following documents to use as a reference, before reading the next section. The number codes in the following article, such as {12}, refer to these documents.

If you want to go directly to San Pancho from the airport, skip ahead to Traveling North to San Pancho.

Shopping In Puerto Vallarta

You may wish to shop on your way to San Pancho. San Pancho has:

• A wide selection of great restaurants for all three meals
• A variety of fresh fruit, and vegetables
• Fresh milk, eggs, fish, meat and bread
• A liquor store
• Pharmacies

While the following items are available in San Pancho, selection is definitely limited by US and Canadian standards:

• Packaged and gourmet groceries
• Household and personal care goods
• Clothing and beach wear
• Books and magazines
• Sporting goods
• Hardware supplies

Manufactured items tend to be expensive throughout Mexico and are not usually the latest models or best quality. These items are hard to find in Mexico:

• Dental floss
• Plastic wrap
• Three-way light bulbs

Therefore (especially if you are coming for longer than a short trip), you may wish to travel south from the airport {20} into Puerto Vallarta and do some shopping before you head back north to San Pancho.

For a fast supply and cash stop, go to the Plaza Marina {21}, immediately south of the airport on the west (right) side of MEX 200 (which has four different street names as you travel through Puerto Vallarta). This is a large shopping center with a wide selection of stores, including a big grocery store, places to eat (including excellent fish tacos), a Banamex ATM and a Lloyd currency exchange office.

If you want a wider selection of gringo-familiar items, there is a Wal-Mart and a Sam's Club {24} a little farther south on the east (left) side. Sam's Club is a godsend for office supplies (which are surprisingly expensive in Mexico), office equipment (which tends to be expensive and obsolete), furniture, appliances, hardware, and sundry household items. Bring your Sam's Club card with you.

Visiting The Puerto Vallarta Entertainment District

If you choose to travel on into Puerto Vallarta, you will pass the naval yard and marina {23}, followed by the large beach front hotels (Fiesta Americana has an amazing palapa entrance). After that you will find several large Mexican grocery and general stores, a Gold's Gym, sports complexes, and a wide variety of service establishments, restaurants, shopping, and entertainment.

As you approach the boardwalk (malecón) {26} the highway narrows to two lanes and traffic can get very congested. A good option is to park and walk at this point. You will also find a parking garage under a plaza on your left. The malecon hosts a phenomenal variety of entertainment, especially in the evening. You will find clowns and comedians, breath-taking aerial acts, musicians, artists, fire jugglers, and guys performing amazing balancing acts with large boulders, to mention only a few.

Image Courtesy of PuertoVallarta.com

If you decide to travel on through the entertainment district, you can return via a bypass that avoids the bottleneck. Pass the malecon and the delightful architecture of the cathedral (it wears a huge crown) and you will come to the river (Rio Cuale) {27}. Stop and walk half a dozen blocks east (away from the ocean),along the north side of the river, and you will come to Liz Taylor's house (she and Richard Burton fell in love here during the local filming of John Houston's Night of the Iquana).

Continue across the bridge and in another half a dozen blocks turn left on Basilio Badillo (you will see signs for the Libramiento tunnel). This highway route will loop you back to the north via the east (hillside) edge of the city and you will rejoin MEX 200 north of the congested downtown area {25}. Or, if you continue south out of the city, you will come to the popular Los Muertos beach area and a stretch of wonderful cliff-side homes overlooking the ocean.

AgroGourmet
(322) 222-5357

While you are on Basilio Badillo, you may also wish to visit the AgroGourmet shop at 222 Basilio Badillo. AgroGourmet carries natural and organic fruits, vegetables, oils, grains, herbs, and juices. They also carry gourmet comfort foods, such as maple syrup, fine cheeses, homemade pasta, lox, sausages, and spices.

Traveling North to San Pancho

As you travel north from the airport, you will pass a small shopping and design center that house a number of wonderful art and interior design stores {18}. If this is of interest to you, stop in at Art by Design and ArtRel (say hello to Cristina de la Rosa at ArtRel).

If you speak Spanish, there is a tourist information center {14} on the right, immediately past the Jarretadera exit.

A little farther, you will come to an intersection with a large Super Farmacia {12} on the right, which is worth a stop if you need anything from a large pharmacy or drug store. If you are in the mood for exploring a little,a left turn here will take you out past the technical university to Nuevo Vallarta where you can check out some remarkable resorts.

In Bucerias, you will find a good HSBC Bank ATM {11}, the Gecko Rent a Car office {10}, and a Telcel store {9} where you can purchase a Mexican cell phone. There is also an excellent espresso and pastry shop in this block. The Gecko Rent a Car folks will be happy to give you directions, as well as excellent recreation suggestions and general guidance.

If you have the time, it is highly recommended to get off at the Punta Mita exit {8} and take the scenic drive up the coast. This will add about 18 km (11 mi) to your trip. You will pass scenic coastline views and some beautiful beach front developments. At {5}, note the entrance to the new Fonatur (the Mexican national agency for tourism development) project. You will travel through an ecological preserve and a small down before you reach the entrance to Sayulita on the left {3}. This neighboring village to San Pancho is a fun beach town with an active surf scene, night life, and a wide variety of excellent restaurants, including lovely health food fare at a local yoga center.

Image Courtesy of G Michael Moore

Continue on to MEX 200 {2}, turn left and travel a short 5 km to the lovely village of San Pancho {1}. If you have a minute, stop in at the Emerald Coast offices for a beverage! We are immediately on your left as you turn off MEX 200 to enter San Pancho.

SERVICES

There are numerous internet cafés (most also have copy and fax services) in San Pancho, as well as a number of DVD rental stores.

Household help is easy to find, efficient, and inexpensive. Appliance service people typically make house calls.

The nearest filling station to San Pancho is in Lo de Marcos, 10 km (6 mi) to the north, or in Bucerías, 23 km (14 mi) to the south. In a pinch, you can purchase gas at the repair shop on the north side of Tercer Mundo, immediately east of the river, just west of MEX 200. There are a variety of auto service and repair shops in San Pancho.

Laundromats

Several laundromats (lavanderías) are full-service establishments that charge very reasonable rates by the kilogram. Stop by in the morning and you can usually pick up your stuff in the afternoon. Washing delicates or other special-care clothing is not recommended unless you are able to provide explicit instructions.

Beauty Shops And Hair Salons

It is easy to find a full-service beauty shop and hair salon (estética) in San Pancho. A man, a good haircut will set you back about USD $5.

Pharmacies

San Pancho has several pharmacies (farmacias), some of which carry beauty products.

Many drugs that are available only by prescription in the US are available over the counter in Mexico. In some cases, the variety of combinations and doses is more limited than in the US. In general, prices are significantly less expensive.

Fema Farmacia
(322) 258-4011

This 24-hour pharmacy is located near the hospital, at the intersection of Egipto and Africa.

CMQ Farmacia
(322) 258-4390

Located on the north side of Tercer Mundo (main street), east of Ceilan.